– How to Alter Your Patterns for a Perfect Fit
Presented by Marna Davis 2018 TLHA conference
Time: 9:00 to 5:00
The key to a great, correct look is fit.
From how to take good measurements, to how to alter your muslin pattern for a period-correct fit.
The goal is to leave with a master pattern that fits perfectly, that you can use as a go-to for your time frame.
We will discuss how patterns were adjusted in different time frames as needed, why armscye fit is important for movement, what to do about those annoying wrinkles, and what order all these adjustments need to be completed in!
If time allows, there will be discussion on style alterations from your basic pattern.
Supplies to be brought by participants:
- Muslin of your period appropriate bodice and one sleeve (don't insert sleeve into bodice)
- Corset/undergarments as appropriate to your time frame you NEED these to fit your muslin properly
- Sewing machine
- Pins
- Extra Muslin fabric in case adjustments are needed
- 2-3 sheets of posterboard (to transfer your final sloper/master pattern onto)
- Roll of kraft, newsprint or tracing paper
- Colored Markers(basic magic markers) or dressmaker's chalk
Notes on Making a Muslin
A muslin is a test garment made to check out pattern or fit. Making a muslin is well worth the time so you can see how the garment is going to fit. A perfect fit is the key to a really good looking period garment and making a muslin to adjust your pattern is the best way to get the adjustments worked out first.
It is made out of muslin, or any firm plain weave fabric and cut like the intended garment without the finishing touches. I actually like to buy old sheets at thrift stores to make my "practice" garments from.
When making a muslin for a bodice with gathers, the lining muslin is fitted first, then the outside muslin is made to fit the lining.
Some rules of muslin construction.
1. Use smooth plain weave fabric in a plain light color , with decent body/firmness, such as broadcloth or muslin
2. Mark right sides of muslin and sew wrong sides together. This puts the seams to the outside.
3.Use a short basting stitch to put muslin together (I use a 3.5 or 4 on my machine with a 2-2.5 being used for regular stitching and 5 used for gathering)
4. Baste in darts and all seams
5. Cut and baste together one sleeve but DO NOT insert into bodice
A muslin is a test garment made to check out pattern or fit. Making a muslin is well worth the time so you can see how the garment is going to fit. A perfect fit is the key to a really good looking period garment and making a muslin to adjust your pattern is the best way to get the adjustments worked out first.
It is made out of muslin, or any firm plain weave fabric and cut like the intended garment without the finishing touches. I actually like to buy old sheets at thrift stores to make my "practice" garments from.
When making a muslin for a bodice with gathers, the lining muslin is fitted first, then the outside muslin is made to fit the lining.
Some rules of muslin construction.
1. Use smooth plain weave fabric in a plain light color , with decent body/firmness, such as broadcloth or muslin
2. Mark right sides of muslin and sew wrong sides together. This puts the seams to the outside.
3.Use a short basting stitch to put muslin together (I use a 3.5 or 4 on my machine with a 2-2.5 being used for regular stitching and 5 used for gathering)
4. Baste in darts and all seams
5. Cut and baste together one sleeve but DO NOT insert into bodice
Stay tuned pattern suggestions and "kit" availability coming soon.
Pre-made Kits
Kits will be available for $45 and must be pre-ordered from Marna at least 1 week before the class.
They will include everything needed for the class except you dressed in your appropriate undergarments for fitting and a sewing machine (I will have one available)
I will need to know measurements for kits (taken over appropriate undergarments)
and the time frame/year you are wanting to wear this outfit.
Bust, Waist, Hip, Back Waist length, bra size, neck at base,
shoulder length from base of neck to edge of shoulder,
arm at bicep, forearm and wrist, sleeve length
Do it yourself
Suggested patterns- choose a basic plain historic pattern for your time frame.
1830, 1840, 1850 Past Patterns #017 work dress is a good one to start with. Use the fitted lining to make your muslin http://www.pastpatterns.com/017.html
1850-60 #701 1850-1867 Gathered and Fitted Bodices http://www.pastpatterns.com/700.html
early bustle 1867-1874 Early Bustle Bodice Pattern https://www.etsy.com/listing/233494681/
Natural Form 1875-1880 Allie https://www.etsy.com/listing/233494099/
1880
Suggested patterns- choose a basic plain historic pattern for your time frame.
1830, 1840, 1850 Past Patterns #017 work dress is a good one to start with. Use the fitted lining to make your muslin http://www.pastpatterns.com/017.html
1850-60 #701 1850-1867 Gathered and Fitted Bodices http://www.pastpatterns.com/700.html
early bustle 1867-1874 Early Bustle Bodice Pattern https://www.etsy.com/listing/233494681/
Natural Form 1875-1880 Allie https://www.etsy.com/listing/233494099/
1880
