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Domestic Lady's Dressmaker patterns- where history matters.


NOTICE- 9-14-21
Temporary Hold on ordering patterns from this page due to printer malfunction. 
All patterns must be ordered from Etsy site for inventory control until repairs have been made to printer, as I can not print on demand.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/WickedStepmothers​

1870s patterns 

A wrapper, work or house dress from the first half of the 1870s.

Two sizes of patterns Size A(32-43”Bust) Size B(43-51" Bust)

This pattern is based on an original in my collection, and options are taken from ideas from other period gowns and photos, as well as pattern catalogs. This pattern can be easily adapted for any season by choice of fabric, but the original was meant as a summer gown with its unlined bodice. This pattern is a very quick and easy pattern, as most of the extant piece was sewn on the sewing machine.

It includes two sleeve styles, an optional removable collar, and two flounce lengths/attachment methods as well as period notes on similar fashions.



Fabric Suggestions- 6 1/2 - 7 1/2yds of fabric is required

Calico print, broadcloth, madras plaid, linen for a summer dress.
$18
Size A(32-43" bust)
Size B(43-53" bust)
Size
Size 10 12 14 16
Bust 30 32 34 36
Waist 28 29.5 31.5 34
Waist w/ dart 26 27.5 29.5 32
This pattern is one size 10-12-14-16 multisized for teenage girls. 
The style is based on pattern drafts and pattern catalog images from the late 1870's and the 1880's. This is a simple dress meant for play, morning wear and chores around the house or farm. 
The pattern includes: 
3 collar variations: rolling collar, standing collar(military), ruffle collar
4 dress variations including:
Spanish flounce, narrow flounce, plain, bustle back panel
step-by-step directions with images
Historical sewing notes
Option ideas from extant sources
​
$18 Teen girls
sizes 10-16 included
Three patterns for early bustle aprons included. 
Based on original aprons, extant photos, and period pattern listings.
The bibbed pocket apron the pattern is named for is both an original in my collection and a pattern listed in 1872 Demorest fashion magazine. This pattern includes two drawn out braiding patterns based on braid patterns from Peterson's magazines 1870-1874.
The Mill Girl option is based on my study of aprons from that time frame and photos of Mill Girls in my collection.
​ The Kitchen apron starts with the Mill Girl pattern, but has an extended side panel that buttons behind the skirt to give better protection while engaged in culinary creativity. 

Historic notes and images included as well as multiple braiding pattern scans for you to adapt.

All sizes included
$15

1880-90s Patterns

Picture
Kay's Housekeeping dress was designed to be an adaptable dress for everyday wear for the 1880's and 1890's.  I have used both extant dresses in my collection and shapes from pattern catalogs from the time frame in designing this pattern. The shape is equally appropriate made in a washable cotton print for housekeeping duties, as it is in a warm wool, or even an elegant silk for a teagown. I have included ideas and historic notes and a variety of options to make this dress uniquely you, but still historically authentic.
Size
$28
Size A(32-43" bust)
Size B(43-53" bust)
Picture
The first place I found this apron was in the 1885 July issue of the Delineator. The same pattern also appeared in the National Garment cutter around the same time frame. The pattern remained in catalogs/drafting systems until the later part of the 1890's. 
All sizes included
34 inch  to 52 inch bust  
$15
​This pattern includes a basic bustle era skirt pattern, with several lengths, two train styles, instructions for book lined pleats, box pleats, Marna's ruffle worksheet Much more than shown on the picture.  We use this basic skirt pattern to create the basis for most of our gowns.  It also includes instructions for creating a foundation skirt with built in bustle, a bustle pad pattern.
View A & C require 4 1/2 yards fabric Views B & D require about 6 1/2 yards. More fabric may be required for more elaborate ruffles or for trained skirts. Equal amounts of lining are also needed for a lined skirt, and 3/4 yard of firm fabric is needed for  the hem facing.
 
$21 All sizes included
Waist 24-48" Hip 34-54"
This pattern is based on a draft directly from an original in the collection at the Chisholm Trail Museum in Kingfisher, OK . 

Create the comfortable corset for all your sports/household chores! The cording used to give this garment support, not only gives you the appropriate shape for the late Victorian era, it provides comfortable support for heavy lifting while allowing flexibility for those folks who are active in their impressions.

The multi-sized pattern includes illustrated directions, historic notes, and helpful sewing terms/hints. Two pattern sizes including 30-40 inch bust finished corset measurement and 40-50 inch bust finished corset measurement.

The measurements on this corset are actual finished corset measurements. 
This means you should choose a size about 2 to 4 inches smaller than your actual measurements.
If your bust measurement is 38 inches, then you should choose a 36 corset as your base- or if you like to lace tighter (or suspect your fabric could stretch) even a 34. 
This corset is not meant to be a “fashion” corset for large amounts of reduction, but rather for proper historic support for active wear. Tapering lines between sizes to customize fit will help to get a more comfortable corset. Corset measurements for bust/waist/hip are given printed on the pattern sheet, as well as in the historical notes of the corset instructions.
​
Size
$ 18 Size A or B
Size(Bust measurement in inches)
SIZE A, B, or C
$17
This pattern was created for the early bustle time frame-1869-1875.
It has two length options-A. waist (short) and B. basque (hip length) and depending on the fabrics and trim used can be made up into an appropriate bodice for nearly any situation. It was not taken directly from an existing garment, but rather made by studying many such garments, pattern drafts, photos, and fashion plates as being the most "representative" of the period.
It is suggested that view A back be cut on the fold of the fabric and the style shown is appropriate from 1868-1875 , while View B with a center back seam and stand up collar is a bit later in the early bustle era and would be seen from 1870-1875. The sleeve caps may be omitted on view A and are more common from 1868-1872 than the later years of the early bustle period. Decorative sashes are very popular from 1868 through about 1874 and may also be worn with the basque bodice, and in many other styles as well as the one shown.
I have also marked the cutting line for a square neckline on the front of the dress for evening or dinner wear, or to be filled in with a chemisette for day wear. Simply cut out along this line and bind or pipe as you would the round neckline. A tall collar is not necessary for "proper" day wear in this period- a neckline to the base of the throat is sufficient to remain within the boundries of polite society.
This bodice should be very fitted when finished, and only 1/2 inch ease is allowed in the pattern, plus a wide seam allowance at the side seam to allow for fitting. It is also intended to be worn over a corset. If you have not worn a properly fitted period bodice before it is suggested you make it up in an inexpensive fabric to see if you want to make it from the next larger size. Instructions for making a fitting muslin are also included to achieve the best fit possible!
Size(Bust measurement in inches)
SIZE A (32-39 inch bust) SIZE B(39-51 inch bust)
$18
Natural form (1876-1881) work or house dress
multiple size pattern 32 through 39 inch bust measurements

This pattern is based on an original in my collection, and options are taken from ideas from other period gowns and photos, as well as pattern catalogs. This pattern can be easily adapted for any season by choice of fabric, but the original was meant as a summer gown with its ¾ length sleeves, and unlined bodice. It would have been easily washed, and the slight flounces and self bias trim would hold up well when laundered. It was what would be known during the natural form period as an easy fitting basque, or simply by leaving the dart out- a “half fitting sacque”

It includes two sleeve lengths, two collar options, trim options, as well as period notes on similar fashions to help you make it a very flexible pattern.

 

Fabric Suggestions- About 7 1/2 yds of fabric is required

Calico print, broadcloth, homespun, linen for summer dress with ruffles– winter dresses may be wools or heavier linen, and the bodice options without ruffles are suggested– or contrasting silk ruffles may be used.